Text: Marianne Heron. Pictures: David Morgan. This article is from the December 2011 issue of Country Life.
Dallying with food and wine is inevitable in this delectable gourmet capital of the Cape.
We lay the blame squarely on Franschhoek. The valley was the spur for our decision to move to the Cape. It was one of those ‘aha’ moments when we decided we’d be mad to go back to grey European skies and high-pressure jobs. The tipping point came where the road down the glorious Franschhoek Pass winds into the village.
Ever since then we have treated this outrageously beautiful valley with a degree of caution, given its spellbinding powers. We havereturned many times, but until we celebrated the 15th anniversary of our decision, we never risked staying there. For staying, given the temptations of the ‘food and wine capital of the Cape’, is an altogether more seductive experience.
To get things in perspective, we opted to begin our stayover visit at Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve, which has a panoramic view over the valley. Our guide on one of the reserve’s nine hiking trails, Professor Isaac Rust, put us straight on the story of Franschhoek.Walk through the orchards and vineyards behind Mont Rochelle Winery, past two dams, to reach the beacon, giving you a fantastic view of the valley.
PLEASE NOTE THAT PROF. ISAAC RUST IS NO LONGER IN FRANSCHHOEK. CONTACT GET YOUR GUIDE SHOULD YOU REQUIRE ONE.
It began not with the 1688 arrival of Huguenot immigrants in the area, then known as Oliphantshoek, but 140 million years earlier with the seismic event that gave rise to a fault line in the earth’s crust. Overtime the Berg River took advantage of this rift to carve out the valley, one that’s now perfect for viticulture – which is why Professor Rust, emeritus Professor of Geology at the University of Port Elizabeth and a fund of entertaining information on the earth’s history, raises his hat to the river.
Blessed with the kind of gifts that make other destinations jealous, Franschhoek also has a remarkable capacity for reinventing itself, so there are always new things to experience and an extraordinary number of events to enjoy. We set off to discover some of them.
‘Redefined’ is the word used at La Motte wine estate to describe the happy marriage between new and old. At the heart of the 1695 property is a new complex with enough attractions to keep anyone happy for an entire day. They range from wine tasting in an elegant tasting room to a new hiking trail and an art gallery displaying works from the Rupert Collection, including by the artist Jacob-Hendrik Pierneef, whose evocative lino cuts feature on the labels of the estate’s premier wine range.
I was all for redefining myself too – on a sofa under the oak trees, ordering a little sweet something from the new farm shop while hoping for a glimpse of chef Chris Erasmus at work in the Pierneef a la Motte restaurant – but we’d got wind of a brand-new attraction, the Rond en Bont (round and about), community tourism route.
Our first stop on the route was Ruth Paulse’s Teesakkie tea garden in Groendal, where we tucked into iced tea, prawn salad and what has to be the best pumpkin pie ever.
Our city stress melted away for, as Ruth put it, “If you are in a hurry, this is the wrong place to come to.”
Rond en Bont offers tours that give an insight into the diverse cultures of the valley, including wine tasting at a shebeen.
We opted to visit potter Vuyisa ‘Elvis’ Potina at the recently opened Artefact, just off the Huguenot Road. Vuyisa, who produces traditional smoke-fired ceramics, had recentl won a contract to supply the Tiger’s Eye range for O.R. Tambo Airport.
The ‘must see’ syndrome is part of Franschhoek’s charm and on local advice we ended up with an enticing list of people and places – from sushi makers to waterfalls – to visit.
Which is how we came to drop in at Julie and Richard Parkfelt’s La Chataigne Farm where we were offered a surprise lunch (only our second that day). “We thought you might be hungry,” said the Parkfelts kindly.
Franschoek is blessed with the kind of gifts that makes other destinations jealous
Julie is a foodie enthusiast who gives cookery classes specialising in Italian cuisine, while Richard is a wine hobbyist. A perfect pairing, just like Julie’s acqua cotta soup matched with Richard’s intriguing Sauvignon Blanc made with grapes harvested on three separate occasions.
Richard’s father Lennart Parkfelt, is another visitor who fell under Franschhoek’s spell and subsequently emigrated to the village from his native Sweden in 1972, bringing with him the chestnut tree which gives the farm its name.
After the soup came a roséwine with cheese that led to another ‘must see’ – Ludovic and Nadine Maske’s characterful wine shop, La Cotte, on Main Street.
Ludovic is a wine oracle consulted by all. Not surprisingly, since he stocks wines from 35 local wineries and supplies local and imported wines to restaurants in the valley. Nadine, for her part, imports sinful French cheeses. So they’re another ‘made in heaven’ pairing (someone should write a thesis on the valley’s capacity to come up with such happy couplings).
One connection has a way of leading to another in Franschhoek and so it was that our next visit was to Phillip Aplas of Allora restaurant at the next-door Olive Shack for an olive oil tasting.”I’m so impressedwith the quality of the olive oils here that I need to showcase them,” said Phillip, explaining the reason for the tasting. It was a revelation.
The three local oils we tried looked the same, but when sniffed and rolled around the palate proved very different. My favourite was the extra virgin Franschhoek oil – smooth and buttery with green banana and citrus notes and a peppery aftertaste.
Staying in the valley gives you time to discover the interesting places tucked away down the side roads or in the folds of the foothills. Places like La Chataigne’s guest cottages beside the Franschhoek River, or the Cathbert Country Inn set in the Simonsberg foothills, where we stayed.
Expecting a modest supper there, we found we’d fallen into yet more gourmet temptation. Resident chef Maxwell Nandala plied us with a butternut and feta quiche with crispy cheese pastry, a photogenic rolled fillet of salmon with coriander, and a chocolate feuillantine, before we tottered off to bed through the lavender-scented garden.
Passions blossom in the valley and in Michael Tibb’s case his really is a ‘growing’ passion. Michael has been fascinated with orchids since his schooldays and his interest in them took him from his native Durban to the UK, Japan, the jungles of the Philippines, then back to the UK, where he owned the Exotic Plant Company for 14 years before returning to SouthAfrica to build a business which today imports over 10 000 roses a week Last year he opened his stunning glasshouse emporium, the Exotic Plant Company, next to Moreson in Happy Valley Road. And the good news is that orchids “aren’t expensive when you consider their long lasting quality and that they will flower again given simple care,” says Michael.
Next door, at the Bread & Wine Restaurant, Neil Jewell’s passion for charcuterie (experienced by lucky participants attending Country Life’s recent charcuterie workshop) gives rise to interesting pairing possibilities. Flavours intensify in a fascinating way when Neil’s charcuterie, based on traditional European recipes, is paired with Moreson wines – like the heavenly combination of premium Chardonnay with his herb-smoked pork loin.
Our second food and wine pairing venue – just one of the many innovative experiences on Franschhoek’s new Food and Wine Route – was at Vrede en Lust Wine Estate, where the exquisitely restored 1688 manor house is the romantic heart of one of the most exclusive wedding venues in the Cape.
While coaxing us through Vrede en Lust’s sumptuous food and wine pairings, chef patron of their Cottage Fromage restaurant, Mancunian Duncan Doherty, told us how he drove over the Franschhoek Pass, saw the Valley and decided he was going tolive here (I’m beginning to wonder if the valley is populated by people who had the same epiphany as us).
To be honest, we really didn’t need much coaxing to try the pairings. Introduced to us by Alice Mfundisi, they included quail’s egg ravioli with pear salad and a Blanc de Noir Rose; a tomato elixir with a 2010 Sauvignon Blanc; truffled mushrooms with Marguerite, a 2010 wooded Chardonnay; hot-smoked trout with cucumber mousse and a 2011 Vigonier; calf’s liver and Marsala mash with a 2008 Syrah; and dark chocolate with Vrede en Lust’s flagship wine, Boet Erasmus. Bliss!
Feeling like Cinderella, we had to leave, There were still endless things on our list to do, such as playing boules, visiting the Kooperasie Stores in Simondium, which are packed with European curiosities, and eating at one the locals’ favourite haunts, chef Chris Hoffman and Louise Rambert’s Cafe des Arts in Topsi Venter’s former restaurant. There’s nothing for it, we’ll simply have to go back.
Amazing how far-reaching the effects of an event that happened 140 million years ago can be.
Franschhoek Festivals
Bastille Festival
In July the town celebrates its Huguenot heritage.
Franschhoek Uncorked
In September wineries celebrate their new releases.
Magic of Bubbles
2-4 December 2011 Cape Classique Festival
Franschhoek Literary Festival
11-13 May 2012 www.franschhoek.org.za
Franschhoek Favourites
- Enjoy a cheese and wine tasting at Franschhoek Cellar Door on the Franschhoek Wine Route www.franschhoek-cellarco.za
- Go hiking in Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve 073 495 6115
- Pop in at the Franschhoek Motor Museum at L’Ormarins www.fmm.co.za
- Visit the Huguenot Memorial Museum 021 876 2532
- Visit Babylonstoren to view their French-style gardens and dine in their acclaimed restaurant 021 863 3852
- Visit the Museum van derCaab and the Dik Delta Garden at Solms Delta Wine Estate 021 874 3937
- Share Neil Jewell of Bread & Wine’s passion for charcuterie made from traditional recipes 021 876 3692
- Cycle through the vineyards or go on a guided cycling tour 073 495 6115
Food and Wine Pairing Tips
When pairing wine with food, it’s important to match the wine’s weight, or body, with the food. Consider your tongue as a sensitive set of scales. Hold a piece of calamari on your tongue, then a piece of steak.The calamari feels lighten the steak heavier and denser.
The same applies to wine. Different factors affect the body of a wine – aging it in oak adds a ‘heavier’, spicy character. Tannin, found in the grape’s skin, adds body and a puckering sensation, like a strong cup of black tea.
A zesty, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc is light-bodied, a ripe, fruity unoaked Chardonnay is medium-bodied, and a rich, oaked Chenin Blanc is full-bodied.
The Franschhoek Cellar range of wines is great for pairing, and some recommendations are:
The Churchyard Cabernet Sauvignon – pepper crusted steak with sauteed vegetables
The Old Museum Merlot – meaty Mexican pizza
Baker Station Syrah – fillet of venison with berry glaze and mash
Our Town Hall Chardonnay – prawns with creamy lemon butter sauce
Chenin Blanc – chicken and broccoli lasagne
Sauvignon Blanc – prawn California rolls
| More info on the town of Franschhoek | More info on the Cape Winelands |
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