For years, hyaluronic acid has been the darling of the beauty industry but more recently, it’s been surrounded by controversy that it could well be causing more harm than good. Today we’re looking at both sides of the debate and sharing our advice on using this popular product…
THE ‘FOR’ ARGUMENT
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant – a substance that binds and retains water molecules, enabling it to deeply hydrate the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is produced naturally in the body with the highest concentrations found in the skin; the majority of which is found within the deeper layers of the dermis. It is made up of D-glucuronic and N-acetyl glucosamine (two sugars) which bind water molecules in the skin cells to collagen. As a result, a transparent gel is formed which acts as a sponge to draw and hold moisture, providing our skin with the hydration it requires along with a firmer, plumper, brighter complexion. This also helps to fight free radicals, maintain the skin’s elasticity, heal the skin (as it has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties), and benefits our eyes and connective soft tissue function by lubricating and cushioning joints.
The argument:
As we get older, our levels of hyaluronic acid naturally decrease. As it’s thought hyaluronic acid can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water molecules, by incorporating products rich in this ingredient you can continue to provide your skin with the hydration it requires in a way that your body is less able to naturally and no other products can.
THE ‘AGAINST’ ARGUMENT
Hyaluronic acid can dry out the skin as it draws moisture from its surroundings and leaves skin exposed if the moisture is not sealed in.
The moisture that hyaluronic acid products attract comes from our external environment. It pulls moisture from the air and draws it into the skin to provide the hydration it needs. The downside to this is that when humidity levels are low, (meaning there is a lack of moisture in the air) no matter what your skin type is, it can quickly become very dry and dehydrated under these circ*mstances.
The argument:
Applying hyaluronic acid to a dry, dehydrated face can exacerbate skin concerns, especially as the ingredient in skincare products is a synthetic version. In using it, you are drawing up the moisture from the deeper levels of the skin to the surface of the epidermis where it just evaporates, leaving skin feeling drier, tighter and uncomfortable.
THE BEST WAY TO USE HYALURONIC ACID
Our recommendation with all skincare is to keep things simple. Resist layering on too many products.
Seal moisture into the skin by using a face oil rich in EFAs (essential fatty acids) as the last step in your routine.
Keep a close eye on your skin’s health as you are using products. If you have concerns, remove products one by one from your routine to work out which is affecting your skin.
As always, hydrate yourself from within too by drinking plenty of water.
Where possible, avoid conditions which can further dry out your skin such as air conditioning, central heating and hot showers.
SEAL MOISTURE INTO SKIN WITH ONE OF THESE FACIAL OILS
One of the biggest mistakes that people make with hyaluronic acid serum is applying it to dry skin. Since it works by pulling moisture like a sponge, it will absorb moisture from deep in your skin if there's no other source of moisture for it to pull (via Sofia Latif).
Here's the thing: If your skin doesn't have much moisture to begin with, HA won't be very effective on its own. In fact, it could leave your complexion feeling even drier.
Can You Overuse Hyaluronic Acid? No, it is advised not to overuse HA. It is a humectant (draws moisture from the environment); excess HA in skincare can cause retention of more hydration than needed. Research suggested that overuse of HA can cause redness and inflammation.
When it's applied to dry skin, it can actually draw moisture out of the deeper layers of the skin, leaving it feeling even drier than before. But when applied to damp skin, hyaluronic acid can draw water from the surface of the skin, helping to lock in moisture and keep the skin hydrated throughout the day.
When you use a strong concentration, and by that we mean anything higher than 2%, your skin will dehydrate and won't be able to absorb any moisture. The other reason is that you're applying it in a dry environment.
Too much Hyaluronic Acid can dry your skin by drawing moisture from wherever it can, including the deeper layers of your skin. Yikes! You'll want to avoid products with more than 2 percent HA to avoid irritation or dryness. The sweet spot is actually 0.75 – 1.5 percent.
There are no known side effects to topical lotions and creams with hyaluronic acid, as it's already present in your body. Still, you could have an allergic reaction to a specific formulation or brand. Potential side effects of hyaluronic acid dermal filler include: Bruising.
Potential for Dehydration: Ironically, in very dry environments, hyaluronic acid may pull moisture from the skin instead of the air if there isn't enough humidity. This can lead to increased dryness rather than hydration.
The clearance of hyaluronic acid is impaired in people with liver disease. Research in people who have viral hepatitis mono-infection has shown that elevations in hyaluronic acid are associated with an increased risk of serious liver-related events.
Hardening of skin and connective tissue (scleroderma): Applying hyaluronic acid to the skin might make skin ulcers worse in people who have a condition called scleroderma. If you have scleroderma, don't use hyaluronic acid on your skin.
Two of the most common products used to keep skin in excellent condition are hyaluronic acid and retinol. What should a person use between hyaluronic acid or retinol? Hyaluronic acid is best if they're looking to moisturize dry skin, while retinol works better by encouraging better skin by boosting collagen production.
Hyaluronic acid is generally very safe to use, with few reported side effects. Since the body naturally produces it, allergic reactions are very rare. One 2012 study in 60 people with osteoarthritis who took 200 mg daily for 1 year reported no negative side effects ( 50 ).
Hyaluronic acid is very good at retaining water. A quarter-teaspoon of hyaluronic acid holds about one and a half gallons of water. That's why hyaluronic acid is often used for treating dry eyes. It's also used in moisturizing creams, lotions, ointments and serums.
Always make sure to follow with a moisturizer, this is a skincare must in general, but especially when using Hyaluronic Acid Serum because it locks the moisture in. But it's important to wait 30-60 seconds for the serum to absorb before following with other products.
Tip: Apply Hyaluronic Acid to the face while it is still wet from the Toner, Essence or Face Mist. As we have said, when hyaluronic acid comes into contact with water, your skin will be extremely moisturised and plumped up. Therefore, it is important to always apply it to moist skin.
Some people may experience skin irritation, redness, or itchiness after using hyaluronic acid products. This is usually a mild reaction that can be resolved by discontinuing the product.
The women in the active group using the hyaluronic acid filler showed a shorter distance between face contours, this represented a decrease in skin sagging in the women. Those in the placebo group reported worsened skin sagging.
Introduction: My name is Kareem Mueller DO, I am a vivacious, super, thoughtful, excited, handsome, beautiful, combative person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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